Soft vs Stiff Climbing Shoes: How do They Differ?

Firstly, what in heaven’s name do you mean by soft and stiff?

To clarify, soft climbing shoes typically have thinner and more flexible rubber on the sole, while stiff shoes have thicker rubber with less flexibility. It’s worth noting that some manufacturers offer various types of rubber with different qualities, so it’s essential to consider these factors when selecting a climbing shoe.

Stiffer shoes are more supportive

Stiff climbing shoes tend to provide more support, while soft shoes offer less support and require more work from the muscles and ligaments in your toes. As a result, stiffer shoes are generally more suitable for beginners who are still developing their toe muscles, and for longer climbs or all-day wear, as they are less likely to cause fatigue.

However, if you plan to size down your shoes significantly, a softer and more flexible option may offer a more snug fit. So, it’s important to consider the intended use of the shoes and how tight you want them to fit when deciding between soft and stiff options.

Soft Climbing Shoes Provide More Grip

A stiff climbing shoe has a midsole that is more rigid, which means it won’t bend or deform as much when you step onto a hold. This type of shoe sits on top of the foothold, limiting the amount of rubber that comes into contact with the rock and reducing the grip you can get.

In contrast, a soft climbing shoe is more flexible and can mold itself to the shape of the foothold, providing a better grip than a stiff shoe. However, this flexibility can be a disadvantage on small ledges where you need more control over your foot placement.

Softer shoes are more sensitive

The sensitivity of soft climbing shoes is enhanced by their thinner rubber soles, which provide a better sense of what’s happening beneath your feet. This heightened awareness of foot placement enables climbers to make precise movements and perform delicate footwork, particularly when tackling small holds or steep, overhanging routes.

Furthermore, soft shoes aid in the development of climbers’ balance, technique, and footwork by providing greater feedback and control. In essence, the increased sensitivity of soft shoes offers a significant advantage to climbers seeking to improve their performance.

Stiffer shoes help you power down on small holds

Stiffer climbing shoes offer greater support and stability, providing a solid platform for your feet on small holds. Unlike soft shoes, stiff shoes don’t mold to the shape of the foothold, which can increase confidence when transferring your weight to small edges or making dynamic moves.

These shoes are ideal for vertical, crimp-heavy climbs where a more rigid platform is necessary. However, it’s worth noting that stiff shoes may not be the best option for climbers who prioritize sensitivity over support or when tackling more technical terrain that requires a more delicate touch.

Softer shoes create more friction

Softer climbing shoes are made with more “yielding” rubber that molds to the shape of the foothold, creating greater surface contact and, ultimately, more friction. This increased friction can be particularly useful when smearing or standing on volumes, where a solid platform isn’t available.

In contrast, stiff shoes create a platform that sits on top of the hold and may not mold to the shape of the foothold as well as softer shoes, make them less effective for smearing. So, when tackling terrain that requires a more delicate touch or involves smearing, softer shoes can be a better option.

Does it really matter?

When it comes to climbing shoes, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. While having multiple pairs of shoes for different climbing styles is ideal, it’s not always practical. Shoe manufacturers understand this and design shoes with a balance of stiffness and flexibility so that they can be used on a variety of footholds.

Even if you don’t have the perfect shoe for every situation, it’s important to remember that technique and practice are just as important as the shoe itself. So, while a soft shoe may provide more sensitivity and a stiff shoe may be better for powering down on small holds, ultimately it’s up to you to develop your technique and find what works best for your climbing style.

Which Type of Rock is Suitable for Soft and Stiff Climbing Shoes?

Soft climbing shoes are recommended for slab climbing and steep overhangs due to their flexibility, sensitivity, and smearing capabilities. They are particularly suitable for low-level climbers who need to feel the footholds before committing their weight. However, for slabs with small positive footholds, stiffer climbing shoes are more appropriate. Similarly, for outdoor climbing on tiny holds, stiff shoes provide better edging, whereas soft shoes are adequate for indoor climbing walls with larger footholds, as long as the climber is not a beginner. The image below depicts a climber wearing soft climbing shoes while climbing an indoor gym wall with large footholds.

What Are Different Types of Rubber for Climbing Soft and Stiff Climbing Shoes?

Rock climbing shoes are made using various types of rubber, each with distinct characteristics that aid climbers in achieving better performance on particular surfaces. However, it’s important to note that the feel of the rubber depends on the shoe’s overall design, including the thickness of the sole.

Vibram Rubber

Among the commonly used rubber for making stiff climbing shoes is Vibram. Vibram is a renowned global brand that produces high-performance sports shoes, known for their exceptional durability. Vibram rubber is available in a variety of hardness levels, as depicted in the accompanying image.